The ferry to Mafia Island should depart daily around 9 AM from Nyamisati, the mainland port, offering a comfortable, modern vessel with air-conditioning and seating. The journey takes approximately five hours and costs 16,000 TZS. It has been chaotic and time-consuming to reserve the ticket a day in advance. Then the procedure requires paying and collecting the ticket at 06:00 at the office near the port, even though the ferry was scheduled to depart at 13:00. So we made a deal with a guy running a nearby shop to do it for us for 4,000 TZS.
Mafia Island’s geography is defined by its position in the Indian Ocean off Tanzania’s coast, a location that creates a diverse marine environment with coral reefs and abundant wildlife, including whale sharks. The island boasts lush vegetation like mangroves and Baobab trees, with Chole Bay serving as a protected harbour studded with islets and sandbanks. The island lacks sophisticated infrastructure and has few tarmac roads, reflecting its quiet, serene nature and focus on eco-tourism.
We spent the first night on Mafia Island’s west coast in the town of Kilindoni, known for its historical significance, including pearl diving, and being a prime location for observing the migration of whale sharks due to the coastal currents and continental shelf. The west coast, which lacks the coral reefs and park protection of the east, serves as a hub for local life and offers access to traditional Swahili culture, mangroves, and fertile farmlands.