Somaliland offers plenty of unexpected and wonderful surprises. Admire some exceptional rock paintings, feel the pulse of the fast-growing capital, walk along deserted beaches, visit bustling market towns, be awed by stunning landscapes, and blaze a trail of your own in the far east and west of the country. More than anything, though, it is the Somali people who make a visit to the country so memorable, with their legendary sense of hospitality.
We drove to the Hargeisa livestock market, a major livestock trading hub located on the southeastern outskirts of the city. We found a local “strong and tough” woman, who was ready to guide us through and arrange some photos (10 USD) for us; otherwise, the locals would eat us...
Today we did a rough off-road drive in a hired Toyota (200 USD) around the Gacan Libaax mountain range at 1,720 meters above sea level. The name “Gacan Libaax” translates to “The lion’s paw”. It is known for its unique juniper forests and ancient rock art...
Later, we slowly drove on perfect tarmac through the Sheikh Mountains, a part of the Golis Mountains that form the rugged northern edge of the Somali plateau and run parallel to the Gulf of Aden. The mountains have a significant range in elevation, with the highest peak in Somaliland...
In the morning, we finally went to explore Berbera. First, we drove to the historic port, which is now part of the new port complex. It’s not possible to get there, but we got a permit via friends to drive through the port. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to get out of our car...
We drove on perfect tarmac for about 160 kilometres from Hargeisa to Berbera. We travelled from the high-altitude (1,334 m), inland city of Hargeisa, descending to the coastal town of Berbera. The wide road runs through the Galgodon Highlands and then down to the coast of the Gulf of...
On our way to Berbera, we made a stop and a short off-road drive to Laas Geel, a cave complex famous for ancient rock paintings dating back to the Neolithic period, roughly 9,000 to 3,000 BCE (🎟️35 USD, paid in office in Hargeisa). Other sources suggest a date of around 6,000 years ago...
Today, late afternoon, we drove a few kilometres behind the capital to see the milking of camels. Camels have historically been central to Somali culture, symbolising status and pride. Camel farms in Somaliland, particularly in Hargeisa, are a significant part of the nation’s...
We spent one day in Somaliland’s capital, located in a valley within the Galgodon (Ogo) highlands of northwestern Somaliland, at an elevation of approximately 1,334 meters. Hargeisa’s history began as a watering and trading stop founded by the Isaaq Sultanate in the 19th...
Our first excursion brought us to Borama, located in mountainous terrain at an elevation of 1,467 meters. We drove there on good tarmac through several easy checkpoints. This location, with fertile land close to the Ethiopian border, has created a green environment that stands out against...
After some heavy searching, we finally found Dhagah Kureh, located about 45 kilometres northwest of Hargeisa. It is a significant Neolithic rock art site, known for its extensive ancient paintings that provide insight into the lives of early pastoralist communities. Situated among granite...