Emperor Fasilides established Gondar as the permanent capital of the Ethiopian Empire in 1636, and it served as Ethiopia’s capital until 1855, a period marked by the construction of magnificent castles and a flourishing culture, and ending with the Zemene Mesafint (Era of the Princes). It became a major centre for commerce and a hub of arts, architecture, and painting. The city’s decline began in the late 18th century, following the death of Emperor Iyasu I in 1706, which led to political fragmentation. However, its royal complex, Fasil Ghebbi, was later recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
We took a full-day guided tour (3,000 ETB) that explored the city and its neighbourhood, followed by an afternoon visit to the Fasil Ghebbi complex. In the morning, we drove to the village to visit the synagogue of Beta Israel, the Ethiopian Jewish community historically centred around Gondar. They were agrarian, practised a unique form of Judaism, and faced centuries of prejudice, culminating in mass migration to Israel during the late 20th century. Today, a portion of the community remains in Gondar while awaiting emigration, often living under challenging conditions.
Then, we climbed to the Debre Birhan Selassie Church (🎟️ 400 ETB) with its elaborate murals, and drove by tuk-tuk to Fasilides’ Bath, famous for its annual celebrations. In the evening, we had our delicious dinner — after 15 years — again at the Four Sisters Restaurant.
