DRIVE TO ANKARANA

The drive from Antsohihy to Ankarana along RN6 offers a constantly changing landscapeโ€”ranging from dry forests to lush plantations dotted with baobabs. Road conditions improve as you head north, with stretches of good pavement, although some sections remain rough. We were relieved to finally enjoy smooth roadsโ€”until we reached the bridge at Marivorahona, which had reportedly been damaged between March 16 and 18, 2018.

The destruction was caused by Cyclone Eliakim, which brought heavy rain that overflowed the Mananjeba River. Severe flooding washed away part of the road and damaged both the permanent concrete bridge at Marivorahona and a prefabricated Bailey bridge.

At the crossing, there was a provisional ferry, chaotically managed by the army and free of charge. Alternatively, there was a private option: a makeshift ferry consisting of three canoes tied together with a wooden platform, just large enough to carry a small car. This is where a familiar situation unfolded. The army insisted we join the queue of trucks, which would have taken several days to cross. The only other option was to pay an exorbitant 80,000 MGA, pushed by local fixersโ€”about four times the rate charged to locals.

As night was falling and our patience had worn thin after repeated encounters like this, we decided to push through and made our way onto the ferry.