We spent a day in Eswatini’s oldest protected conservation area, Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary (🎟️ 95 ZAR), which covers roughly 4,560 hectares in the spectacular Ezulwini Valley, or “Valley of Heaven.” The landscape ranges from gentle open plains to rugged, high-altitude terrain in the north near Luphohlo. Dominating the scenery is Nyonyane Mountain, with its striking granite peak, historically known as Execution Rock because of its grim association with criminals and people accused of witchcraft being thrown from the precipice.
Conservationist Ted Reilly established the sanctuary in 1961 on his family’s land. Before becoming a protected area, the land had been heavily altered by tin mining and agriculture. Reilly set about restoring the degraded landscape, bringing back native vegetation, creating wetlands, and reintroducing wildlife species that had disappeared from the area. The name Mlilwane means “Little Fire” in siSwati, referring to the frequent lightning strikes that once sparked natural bushfires on Mlilwane Hill.
Because there are no large predators, you can also explore the area on foot, by mountain bike, or on horseback. The plains are home to species such as zebra, blesbok and other wildlife. We enjoyed a lovely hike along the Hippo Trail, covering around 9 kilometres in about 2.5 hours. The trail took us through open grassy plains and along mountain slopes, offering a peaceful way to experience the sanctuary.
Parking location – Mlilwane Rest Camp: 26.4934443S 31.1855185E (🚻,🚿,🏊,💦,🔌,🍽️,🅿️180 ZAR/pax)